I had never done a multi-week high-altitude trek before. I had done day hikes, a few weekend trips in the Alps, but nothing like this. When a friend said "Manaslu Circuit" over coffee in Kathmandu, I said yes before I fully understood what I was agreeing to.
This is the complete story.
Day 1–2: Kathmandu to Soti Khola
The jeep ride from Kathmandu to Soti Khola (the trail start) takes seven to eight hours on a road that alternates between paved and chaotic. We drove through Arughat, where the last ATM and mobile signal lives, and then continued into the valley. The air changed. Villages got quieter. The hills got steeper.
Soti Khola sits at around 730m. The heat was surprising — I had imagined Himalayan cold immediately. Instead: humidity, banana trees, and the sound of the Buri Gandaki River.
Days 3–6: The Lower Gorge
This stretch is the one that catches first-timers off guard. The trail is relentless — up, down, across bridges, through villages, past waterfalls. Villages like Machha Khola, Jagat, and Deng feel like Nepal from decades ago. Children run out of houses to say hello. Older women carry loads that would buckle most tourists.
What I Ate Every Day
Dal bhat. And I mean every day, twice a day, and it was never boring. The rice and lentil soup comes with unlimited refills. It fuels long days better than any trail bar I brought from home. I stopped reaching for my snack bag by day four.
Days 7–10: Into the Buddhist World
Namrung (2,630m) felt like a turning point. The architecture changed — white-washed walls, carved wooden windows, prayer flags over every rooftop. Rachen Gompa, the monastery above Namrung, was my first real encounter with the Tibetan Buddhist world that defines the upper Manaslu valley.
By the time I reached Lho village (3,180m), I had completely lost track of the outside world. No signal. No news. Just the trail, the mountains, and the rhythm of walking.
Lho was where I saw Manaslu for the first time. The north face rose above the village so completely that it blocked the sky. I stood with my mouth open. My guide Ram laughed.
Days 11–13: Samagaon and Acclimatization
Samagaon (3,530m) is where the trek slows down on purpose. The acclimatization day here is not optional — it is a gift. I hiked up to Pungyen Gompa, an ancient monastery perched above the village with a view of Manaslu Glacier below. It took about an hour and a half up, and I stopped a dozen times not because I was tired but because every angle was worth photographing.
The village itself is a proper Tibetan community. Elderly residents do kora (circumambulation) around the local gompa each morning. Prayer wheels line the entrance path. It felt sacred in a way I was not prepared for.
Days 14–15: Samdo and the High Valley
Samdo (3,860m) sits close to the Tibetan border. The landscape here is high-altitude semi-desert — sparse, windswept, and strangely beautiful. Blue sheep grazed on ridges above camp. A lammergeier circled lazily overhead, its wingspan absurd against the blue sky.
Day 16: Larke Pass (5,160m)
We left Dharamsala at 4am with headlamps. The glacier approach in the dark is eerie — the crunch of ice underfoot, breath visible, stars overhead. By the time light touched the pass, we were nearly there.
The top of Larke Pass is everything. 360-degree views of Manaslu, Himlung, Cheo Himal. Prayer flags snapping. Wind roaring. And then the long descent to Bimthang, where the sun hit the meadows and everything felt warm and soft and earned.
What First-Timers Should Know
- Start training three months out. Leg strength matters more than cardio.
- Book permits early. Restricted Area Permit requires a licensed agency.
- Trust your guide. They know when to push and when to rest.
- Bring cash. No ATMs after Arughat.
- Let go of the schedule. Weather, altitude, or your own body may demand an extra day somewhere.
The Manaslu Circuit was my first big trek. I have a feeling it will not be my last.